Cape No. 7 (海角七號)

Cape No. 7 (海角七號)
Light-hearted cultural fare or clarion call to preserve Taiwanese identity?
By Scott B. Freiberger

At its core, “Cape No. 7” (海角七號) is a dramatic love story laced with ample Taiwanese humor and a chart-topping Mandopop soundtrack. The plot weaves a modern bicultural relationship with events that transpired sixty years ago between a Japanese national forced to leave Taiwan at the end of the occupation (1895-1945) and the Taiwanese woman he had promised to spend eternity with. On the voyage home we hear “Teacher,” voiced by Kageyama Yukihiko (蔭山征彥), composing seven letters to his beloved “Kojima Tomoko,” played by Rachel Liang (梁文音 Liáng Wényīn). Teacher deeply laments his country’s loss, his personal cowardice and their star-crossed fate; he wishes her the best that life has to offer and pledges to always cherish the time that they had shared. After he passes away, his daughter mails a package containing these heart-rending letters, as well as a photo captured in her youth, to his long lost Taiwanese love. The address is marked, “Cape No. 7.”

While viewers learn more about these lovers from a bygone era, a modern romance develops between Taiwanese singer/guitarist A-Jia (Van Fan) (范逸臣 Fàn Yìchén) and Tomoko (田中千絵 Tanaka Chie), a Japanese manager at a talent agency. It’s clear that writer/director Wei Te-sheng (魏德聖) took painstaking effort to ensure that the two stories were dramatically interwoven so that the protagonists, A-Jia and Tomoko, would not fall pray to the same fate of the earlier couple, and that the audience would cheer on their budding romance. It’s also clear that, with his superb cast of both young and old and hit soundtrack that includes dulcet ballads, traditional Taiwanese folk songs, and melodic, fast-paced power pop rock, he intended to target audiences of all ages on Taiwan. The lovelorn letters, recited in Japanese throughout, also helps the film appeal to a broader audience.

From a socio-political perspective, Taiwanese strongly identify with the film because it embodies local characters of all ages that they could relate to. And unlike blockbuster Chinese movies filmed on the mainland by Taiwan native Ang Lee (李安), “Cape No. 7” was filmed entirely on the island; in addition, most dialogue in the film is the local dialect of Taiwanese (閩南語 milanyu), rather than Mandarin. The heart-rending historic love story and Japanese interspersed throughout also reminds Taiwanese people that their past, however painful, is theirs alone to reflect upon and learn from.

“Cape No. 7” opens with a Taipei alley shot of a frustrated A-Jia, on a dimly-lit street, boarding his motorcycle. After a decade of striving for rock stardom in Taipei, he packs up what’s left of his belongings and high-tails it out of the capital in the middle of the night, but not before smashing his electric guitar against a street pole. Director Wei does a wonderful job of capturing capital landmarks in these opening scenes. We view Taipei 101, currently the world’s tallest completed building, from a street in A-Jia’s Taipei neighborhood, and Shinkong Mitsukoshi Life Building, now the second-tallest building on Taiwan (across from Taipei Main Station), in A-Jia’s side-view mirror as he bitterly heads south and races away from his angst-ridden past.

The next few scenes, shot in Hengchun Peninsula, Pingtung County, introduce Tomoko, a talent agent/publicist representing her company on Taiwan. Her dissatisfaction is also immediately evident, as a former model she only reluctantly manages events for the company. The opening world-class cinematography briefly decreases a notch as viewers see a handful of foreign bikini-clad models tailed by a frustrated foreign photographer. A brief scene with Tomoko arguing with her boss would have sufficed to inform the audience of her profession and willful personality; instead, we view what appears to be a cheesy excuse to throw foreign faces into a local movie.

The van driver transporting the models, photographer and Tomoko becomes distracted by a foreign fanny and accidentally forces A-Jia’s grandfather, “Old Mao,” a motorcycle-riding postal delivery worker brilliantly portrayed by Johnny Lín Zōngrén (林宗仁), off the road. As a result, after arriving in Hengchun, A-Jia must assume the role of local postal delivery person. He fails to deliver a plethora of letters, including the mysterious coffee-colored, rope-tied package addressed to “Cape No. 7.” Curious, he opens the package, carefully examines the contents and comes to realize that it must be delivered to its rightful owner.

At the film’s outset we’re also introduced to A-Jia’s stepfather (馬如龍 Mǎ Rúlóng), a bellicose local Taiwanese politician, literally referred to as “Mr. Representative.” With his brash demeanor, quick wit and trailing cronies, Ma truly captures the essence and irony of local politics. A local hotel manager, played by Zhāng Kuí (張魁), devises a scheme to make Hengchun Peninsula more international by inviting Atari Kousuke (中孝介), a Japanese pop star, to perform. Wanting to stress the importance of Taiwan’s cultural heritage, the representative won’t allow the event to take place unless a Taiwanese band opens the show. The hotel manager agrees, Tomoko is assigned to manage the event and, after a humorous audition process, A-Jia reluctantly becomes the band’s lead singer and guitar player. Let the romance, and mayhem, begin!

Throughout the film, viewers are introduced to a distinctly motley ensemble. The lively Malusan (馬念先 Mǎ Niànxiān) is an avid plum wine salesman-turned-bassist, and Dada, played by Joanne Yang (楊蕎安 Yáng Qiáo'ān), is a timid ten-year old church pianist-turned-band keyboardist who heartily concludes each piece with “Amen.” Hoppy-go-lucky mechanic-turned-drummer Frog (應蔚民 Yīng Wèimín) secretly desires to be with his boss’ wife, and hot-headed aboriginal police-officer-turned-band guitarist Laoma (民雄 Mín Xióng) initially rages because his wife has recently left him.

Rebellious hotel housekeeper and seemingly hard-hearted single mother, Shino Lin (林曉培 Lin Xiao-pei), gives a credible performance in her debut film role as Dada’s mother and, ultimately, Kojima Tomoko’s granddaughter. Much of the film’s humor derives from Old Mao, from lecturing his grandson to involuntarily trading his traditional Chinese lute to learn how to play bass, which he admittedly can’t do after being selected to join the band. With his straight-talk and dead-pan humor, Mao clearly demonstrates impeccable delivery and timing. Add a splash of scenic southern beauty, a smattering of drama and a healthy dose of humor and Taiwan, you’ve stirred up a hit movie.

“Cape No. 7” has recently been released on DVD (just in time for Chinese Lunar New Year), the movie truly captures the song, spirit and colorful essence of Taiwan. The movie has also turned little-known actors into overnight celebrities, who are eagerly capitalizing on their newfound fame. Van Fan currently tops the Mandopop charts and can be seen performing in arenas while Japanese pop singer Atari Kousuke’s music could also be heard regularly at area KTV parlors and live at large venues. Tanaka Chie stars in a 7-Eleven® commercial and “representative” Ma Ru-lung recently appeared before the President of the Republic at a concert (his appearance was also broadcast on the news for the island’s 23 million residents to view). Audiences also went wild when Chie appeared beside Fan during a recent performance (also shown on the news). And “Old Mao” and “Malusan” now hawk everything on TV and billboards from telecommunications services to insurance.

Since A-Jia and his grandfather were both postal employees and a handful of scenes were shot at a local Hengchun Peninsula, Pingtung County post office, Chunghwa Post Co., Ltd. (中華郵政公司), the official post office on Taiwan, is also capitalizing on the film’s success with “Cape No. 7” stamps (NT $399) and commemorative postcards (NT $250). Chances are Shino Lin would also be appearing more in the spotlight if not for a fatal DUI crash she had caused on June 7, 2007.

“Cape No. 7” raked in over NT $400 million domestically, becoming the second-highest grossing movie in Taiwan’s history, second only to “Titanic,” and the highest-grossing Chinese-language film in Taiwan's box office history. Pride over the film reached such a fever-pitch that pirated copies open with a message imploring those watching to view the film in theaters. It was the first movie to roll at the 10th Taipei Film Festival, won NT $1 million and three awards at the event, the grand prize at the 2008 Asian Marine Film Festival and an award for Best Cinematography at the 2008 Kuala Lumpur International Film Festival. The film also took home the Best Narrative Film Award at the 2008 Louis Vuitton Hawaii International Film Festival, as well as nine nominations and six awards at the 2008 Golden Horse Awards.

As a testament to his unrelenting belief in this picture, Director Wei mortgaged his home and ran up a personal debt of NT $30 million to cover the film’s NT $50 million budget. Since the movie had a limited budget and most actors had little formal training, the film’s success is evidence that dreams, however small, could become reality with timing, luck, and persistence.

The movie is slated to open in Mainland China on Valentine's Day.

Copyright © 2009 Scott B. Freiberger
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permission of the author and copyright owner.

Taiwan Allows Casinos

After 15 years of repeatedly banning casinos, the Republic of China (Taiwan) is set to allow casinos to be built on its outlying islands of Kinmen (金門), Matzu (馬祖) and Penghu (澎湖).

The change comes as Taiwan lawmakers look to boost its economy as exports and domestic consumption slows. Hopefully after the casinos are built, crime won't become a hotbed issue as is reported on Macau, which is an East Asian tourist destination known for gambling. (Singapore is also reportedly opening its first casino this year.) The story was reported here.

Drift to Danshui (流浪到淡水)

Two blind performers, guitarist Jin Men-wang (金門王) and his accordion-playing musical cohort Li Bing-hui (李炳輝), left an indelible print on Taiwan.

Jin, whose real name was Wang Ying-tan (王英坦), lost his left hand and eyesight on the island of Kinmen at the age of fourteen when a package he found turned out to be an explosive device. Undeterred, he turned down government assistance and performed various jobs, including telephone operator, to support himself; due to his passion for music, he strapped iron sheets onto his left arm and taught himself how to play the guitar. Danshui native Li heard Jin crooning by the river and the two began performing together, rising to stardom with their unique brand of Taiwanese folk songs.

This dynamic duo is well-known on Taiwan for their Taiwanese karaoke super-hit, “Drift to Danshui” (流浪到淡水), ("You've come to dance, I've come to sing, whatever our fate may be, everyone come together and raise a glass, cheers!") Unfortunately, Jin passed away from a heart ailment at the age of 49 on May 5, 2002.

Li, who had once supported himself by giving massages, now runs a successful chain of local parlors. Many of his employees are also blind, as seeing-impaired masseuses are known for their preciseness. You could still hear their music and spot photos and other memorabilia of the two performers around Danshui.

Watch the video for “Drift to Danshui” (流浪到淡水) here.

Taipei In A Day: Includes Taiwan From A To Z is available here, Amazon.com and at Barnes andNoble.com. Thank you again for making Taipei In A Day the highest-rated Taiwan travel book on amazon.com!

It has been a pleasure helping countless travelers to Taiwan enjoy their travels with greater ease.  Thank you to everyone who has provided a positive review of my guidebook and custom "Taipei In A Day (台北一日遊)" tour  based on my best-selling Taiwan travel book, Taipei in a Day: Includes Taiwan from A to Z,  I sincerely appreciate it.  

Have fun and enjoy your time on Taiwan, and if you need a personal Taiwan guide, I provide custom "Taipei in a Day (台北一日遊)" tours based on my best-selling Taiwan tour guide!  Feel free to contact me via www.taipeiinaday.com for details.  --Scott

Taipei In A Day (台北一日遊) Showcased in Taiwan's Leading Bilingual Travel Magazine

The book is available here, Amazon.com and at Barnes andNoble.com.

In Taipei the book is available at Cherry Valley Bookstore, Tienmu East Road, Lane 8, #99,Tienmu, Taipei (behind TAS)(台北市士林區天母東路8巷99號) (02) 2876-9293.

Thank you again for making Taipei In A Day the highest-rated Taiwan travel book on amazon.com! --Scott

Republic of China (Taiwan) Passes Public Non-Smoking Law

Taiwan has passed legislation that will ban smoking in most public areas. The sweeping law takes effect at the stroke of midnight on Friday, January 11, 2009.

In the Republic of China, smokers will no longer be able to light up in offices (defined as workplaces having three or more people), in taxis and on all public transportation, which includes tour buses as well as in bus and train stations. Smoking will also not be permitted in entertainment venues including theaters (and movie theaters), KTV parlors, Internet cafés, hotels, restaurants, shopping malls and retail outlets. Customers could receive a fine up to NT $10,000 (approximately US $300.00) while owners could fare substantially worse, with fines ranging from NT $10,000 to $50,000.

Non-smokers are rejoicing. However, before uncorking that bottle of champagne left over from New Year’s, consider this: while signs on buses forbid smoking, many bus and taxi drivers leave the driver's side front window open and smoke during their breaks in-between shifts (and fares) so passengers inhale second-hand smoke afterwards, and smoking on Taiwan will still be permitted outdoors.

That means after January 11, 2009, smoking will still be permissible in clubs and restaurants with outdoor seating or a patio, and it’s often difficult to escape the waft of second-hand smoke if one is even remotely nearly. If second-hand smoke irks you, forget about dining at choice mountain barbeque or hot pot restaurants, most seating is outdoors and patrons light up as if it were their last evening on earth.

However, one has to think that after January 11, 2009, the air on Taiwan will become a little more breathable. According to one recent survey, more than half of all companies started enforcing a non-smoking policy at the office in 2008 in anticipation of the upcoming law. Ads and billboards have also been springing up around the island from companies selling nicotine chewing gum and patches, and self-help groups and other types of organizations that charge for helping to break the nicotine habit are likely to follow.

More information about the non-smoking law is available (in Chinese) here.

Taipei In A Day (台北一日遊) Highlighted in Taiwan's Most Popular Travel Magazine

Here's the link to the article:
Taipei In A Day Includes: Taiwan From A To Z, First Edition (台北一日遊)

The book is available here, Amazon.com and at Barnes andNoble.com. In Taipei the book is available at Cherry Valley Bookstore, Tienmu East Road, Lane 8, #99,Tienmu, Taipei (behind TAS)(台北市士林區天母東路8巷99號) (02) 2876-9293.

Thank you again for making Taipei In A Day the highest-rated Taiwan travel book on amazon.com! --Scott

Giant Pandas Arrive On Taiwan

Two giant pandas, Tuan-tuan and Yuan-yuan, arrived on Taiwan this evening. The pandas are from the Sichuan province in southwest China, and it's a big deal: TVBS news dedicated an entire minute of air time of the two pandas quietly consuming their first meal of bamboo shoots in Taipei (imagine, an entire minute of two pandas silently chewing...chewing...chewing). It's as if Taiwan has received the John Lennon and Paul McCartney of pandas.

The pandas are symbolic because this "gift" indicates warming ties between Mainland China and Taiwan. Not surprisingly, when their first names ("tuan yuan") are said together it means "reunion," which may have political overtones considering that's precisely what the Mainland is hoping for.

The pandas arrived along with a 32-member delegation and had an elaborate "6-star" facility constructed for them at Taipei Zoo in Muzha by Shin Kong Group at a cost of NT$310 million (US$9.37 million). The panda exhibit will open to the public on January 25, just in time for Chinese Lunar New Year (no coincidence, it's when just about everything else will be closed). Expect extensive news coverage of the vast throngs of excited children (and adults) eager to see the exhibit. Hopefully the showrooms will be soundproof so the crowds don't frighten our two new furry friends.

If you don't think the pandas will be living in style, their facility includes a modern international conference hall for politicians, VIPs and other movers and shakers to observe them while wheeling and dealing; perhaps local companies hope that they'll score a better deal while international business representatives are overwhelmed by the site of the two pandas rolling around and chomping on bamboo? An expansive hall on the second floor is where the rest of us could view the two cuddly-looking animals. The ground floor has two air-conditioned "showrooms" (245 and 210 square meters, respectively), which will be naturally ventilated during the winter.

Will the two mate? That's what zoo officials are hoping for. If you think human conception is difficult, pandas have a three-month mating period, and during that time the female's estrous cycle lasts for only three days (and the fact that the male panda has a very small penis doesn't help, either). If you suggest panda porn to get the two in the mood, you're not far off: according to one local newspaper, "The zoo is...planning to show Tuan Tuan and Yuan Yuan videos of mating pandas to try to arouse their interest in mating."

Expect to see a plethora of panda t-shirts, dolls, and other panda paraphernalia for sale at the zoo, department stores, various retail locations and of course, at night markets around the island. Remember Hulkamania? In about a month, we'll see on Taiwan Pandamania running wild...

The story was reported here and here.

Updates

Hall Yard Resort (花月溫泉館) in Beitou, which was said to have been undergoing renovation to be reopened, has closed. For the best hot springs to frequent in the area please see Hot Springs (溫泉) on page 73.

While in town you'd be remiss not to visit Beitou, a Taipei district rife with serene green parks and natural hot springs. Try Spring City Resort (春天酒店), Youya Road, #18, Beitou District, Taipei City (台北市北投區幽雅路18號) (02) 2897-5555. They have outstanding outdoor warm and cold springs so kids could play while the adults relax.

Beitou District has a lot to offer in terms of cultural life, as well, there are several museums such as Beitou Hot Springs Museum (北投溫泉博物館), Zhongshan Road, #2, Beitou District, Taipei (台北市北投區中山路2號) (02) 2893-9981. The museum is only a three-minute walk from Xinbeitou Station (新北投站).

Also check out Hell Valley (地熱谷), a natural sulfuric pond at the end of Zhongshan Road (中山路), approximately ten minutes by foot from Xinbeitou Station (新北投站). It takes around 25 minutes to reach Beitou Station from Taipei Main Station.

Another must-see while you're in town is Danshui (淡水), the last stop on the red line station heading north from Taipei. There are ample parks (with horseback riding behind the MRT weekends), historic relics and a wharf, which also boasts a sprawling park that the kids would enjoy. The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) ride to Danshui takes about fifty-minutes from Taipei Main Station but it’s worth the trek.

In May the weather tends to be hot and sunny in the morning and early afternoon (around 80 F) with intermittent showers during late afternoons, and umbrellas can be purchased easily (and inexpensively) at most convenience stores. It cools down evenings and is hit or miss as far as light showers go.

Due to the success of the observatory at Taipei 101, Topview Taipei, Shin Kong Observatory (新光摩天展望台), has closed.

TAIPEI SEA WORLD (Fin’s Life Taipei) (台北海洋生活館) has closed.

Fu Lin Men (福臨門) Cantonese-style restaurant at Danshui Station (淡水捷運總站) has closed.

The Maokong Gondola (貓空纜車) is currently being renovated due to land erosion and is not expected to open until sometime in 2010. Have fun and enjoy your time on Taiwan, and if you need a personal Taiwan guide, I provide custom "Taipei in a Day" tours based on my best-selling Taiwan tour guide!  Feel free to contact me via www.taipeiinaday.com for details.  --Scott

11/29 Book Signing @ TES Fall Fair & Arts Festival

I've been asked to do a book signing for Taipei In A Day Includes: Taiwan From A To Z, First Edition (台北一日遊) at Taipei European School (TES) this Saturday, November 29. The book is available here, Amazon.com and at Barnes andNoble.com.

The event will take place from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the school's Wen Lin Road campus, the address is: No. 731, Wen Lin Road, Shihlin, Taipei, call (02) 2832-6614 for more info.

In Taipei the book is available at Cherry Valley Bookstore, Tienmu East Road, Lane 8, #99, Tienmu, Taipei (behind TAS) (台北市士林區天母東路8巷99號) (02) 2876-9293.

Thank you again for making Taipei In A Day the highest-rated Taiwan travel book on amazon.com! I look forward to meeting you at TES on Saturday, 11/29! --Scott

Taichung and Nantou Attractions: Jingming 1st Street (精明一街), Fengjia Night Market (逢甲夜市) and Sun Moon Lake (日月潭)

Although Taichung City has ample department stores, a visit to Jingming 1st Street (精明一街), referred to locally as “tea street,” a European-style shopping district lined with coffee shops and boutiques, makes for a unique experience . This quaint sixty-meter pedestrian street (closed to cars) is between Jingcheng Road (精誠路) and Jingming 2nd Street (精明二街), not far from Taizhonggang Road, Section 2 (台中港路二段). From the old Taichung train station, adjacent to the bus station (Gan Train), the ride takes ten to fifteen minutes and costs around NT $170.

If you prefer to travel by bus you could board at Taichung Bus Station, the ride costs NT $20 and takes about twenty minutes one way. By bus take Taichung Keyun (台中汽車客運公司), bus numbers 27, 70, 88, 103, 106, 146, and 147 all stop near Jingming 1st Street. Fengjia Night Market (逢甲夜市) isn’t near Jingming 1st Street (精明一街), they’re in two different districts. By cab the ride takes about 12 minutes and will set you back around NT $150.

Although in Chinese, here's the official link for Taichung Bus Company: http://www.tcbus.com.tw/

Here's the official link for Jingming 1st Street (精明一街): http://www.jingming1st.com.tw/

If you're traveling by Taiwan High-Speed Rail (THSR), a free shuttle bus runs from Taiwan High-Speed Rail (THSR) Taichung Station to Pacific Sogo Department Store, (Sogo). From Sogo it’s a 15-minute walk to Jingming 1st Street (精明一街). Alternatively, by taxi from THSR Taichung Station the ride takes 30 minutes and costs around NT $350. From Taipei to Taichung a ticket on the high-speed rail costs NT $560 (standard ticket) and the ride takes an hour. Call (02) 4066-5678 for general information or (02) 6626-8000 for phone booking. Here’s the official link in English: http://www.thsrc.com.tw/en/index.htm

Directions from Jingming 1st Street (精明一街) to Sun Moon Lake (日月潭):

It's possible to go from Jingming 1st Street (精明一街) to the popular Nantou County tourist destination of Sun Moon Lake (日月潭), cab it to the old Taichung train station, it's adjacent to the bus station (Gan Train). The ride to the station takes ten to fifteen minutes and costs around NT $170. From the bus station there are several buses that run to Sun Moon Lake, one of which is Nantou Keyuen (南投客運) (049) 298-4031, which runs to Puli, Nantou County, and Sun Moon Lake. Although in Chinese, here is the bus company's website: http://ntbus.com.tw/.

Here's the official link for Sun Moon Lake: http://www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw/

Have fun and enjoy your time on Taiwan, and if you need a personal Taiwan guide, I provide custom "Taipei in a Day" (台北一日遊)" tours based on my best-selling Taiwan tour guide!  Feel free to contact me via www.taipeiinaday.com for details.  --Scott